Some good ground beef, preferably not too lean (when making burgers, fat is our friend), and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper is all you need to make a fine burger most days. But other days, you might want a burger with a bit more zing.

Shallots, mustard, chili sauce, hot sauce - just a bit of these ingredients turn plain burgers into "can I get this recipe?" burgers. If you are looking for more heat, just increase the amount of dry mustard and/or chili powder.Note that this recipe calls for ancho chili powder, a ground spice made of 100 percent ancho peppers. It's available in the spice section of most supermarkets.This is different from a general chili powder, sometimes called chili blend or chili seasoning, which contains a mix of ground chilies, garlic, cumin, oregano and maybe additional spices. But if that blend is what you have on hand, go for it. These burgers, like all burgers, can easily be made into a cheeseburger, using whatever cheese you like. The seasonings in the meat take well to a variety of cheeses, from pungent to mild.Instead of ketchup on top, you might also try a bit of the chili sauce.A slice of sharp onion keeps the flavor ratcheting upward.Deviled BurgersStart to finish: 25 minutesMakes 6 large burgers or 8 medium burgers2 pounds ground chuck (80/20)2 tablespoons chili sauce2 tablespoons finely minced shallot2 tablespoons minced parsley1 tablespoon jarred horseradish, squeezed well to remove excess liquid1 tablespoon dry mustard2 teaspoons chili powder½teaspoon kosher salt¼teaspoon freshly ground pepperSliced or crumbled cheese, if desired6 split burger bunsTo Serve:Ketchup, mustard, chili sauceLettuceTomatoesOnionsPicklesForm the patties:Place the chili sauce, shallot, parsley, horseradish, mustard, chili powder, salt and pepper in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the meat. Use your hands to lightly but thoroughly mix the seasonings into the meat. Divide the beef into six or eight even portions, and use your hands to form even, round patties, about 3/4-inch thick. Use your fingers to press a small indentation into the middle of each patty.Make the burgers:Place the patties on the grill and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, until they are cooked to your liking. During the last minute of cooking, place the cheese over the burgers, if desired. Also place the buns on the grill and let them toast lightly, if desired.Place a burger on the bottom of each bun, and top as desired. Place the bun top over the burger and serve.Nutritional information: 520 calories; 292 calories from fat; 32 g fat (12 g saturated; 2 g trans fats); 107 mg cholesterol; 668 mg sodium; 24 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 4 g sugar; 31 g protein.