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The secret to making great whoopie pies? Brown sugar

Made up of two cookie-like chocolate cakes stuffed with fluffy marshmallow filling, the whoopie pie is a sweet indulgence.

For the cake component, we drew inspiration from devil’s food cake.

For the chocolate flavor, we preferred the darker color and flavor that Dutch-processed cocoa provided. We tried replacing some of the sugar with brown sugar, and found that it deepened flavor and added moisture. In fact, we liked the results so much we wound up using all brown sugar.

Using a 1/3-cup dry measuring cup, we portioned the batter onto two baking sheets to give the cakes plenty of room to spread. For the filling, we eschewed the traditional sugar and lard in favor of marshmallow creme, which we enriched with butter for a mixture that was fluffy yet firm.

Don’t bake all the cakes on one baking sheet; the batter needs room to spread while it bakes.

Whoopie Pies

Makes: 6 sandwich cookies

Start to finish: 1 hour

Cakes

2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour

½ cup (1½ ounces) Dutch-processed cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup packed (7 ounces) light brown sugar

1 large egg, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup buttermilk

Filling

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1¼ cups (5 ounces) powdered sugar

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 ½ cups marshmallow creme

For the cakes:

Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt together in bowl.

Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, beat butter and sugar on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg and beat until incorporated, scraping down bowl as needed. Add vanilla and mix until incorporated. Reduce speed to low and add flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with buttermilk in 2 additions. Give batter final stir by hand to ensure that no flour pockets remain. Using 1/3-cup dry measuring cup, scoop 6 mounds of batter onto each prepared sheet, spaced about 3 inches apart.

Bake until centers spring back when lightly pressed, 15 to 18 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let cakes cool completely on sheets.

For the filling:

Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, beat butter and sugar on medium speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in vanilla and salt. Add marshmallow creme and mix until combined, about 2 minutes.

Refrigerate until slightly firm, about 30 minutes. (Filling can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.) Place 1/3 cup filling on the bottom of half of the cakes, then top with remaining cakes, pressing to spread filling to edge. Serve. (Whoopie pies can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

Nutrition information per serving: 923 calories; 364 calories from fat; 41 g fat (25 g saturated; 2 g trans fats); 141 mg cholesterol; 555 mg sodium; 131 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 81 g sugar; 9 g protein.

Whoopie Pies JOE KELLER VIA AP
This image provided by America’s Test Kitchen in May 2018 shows the cover for the cookbook “The Perfect Cookie.” It includes a recipe for whoopie pies. (America’s Test Kitchen via AP)