By Barry Reed

It’s not too early to begin thinking about your nest boxes for this spring’s nesting birds.

On a recent late January day, I observed the bluebird pairs at four of my bluebird boxes.

They weren’t ready to build their nests yet, but they are indeed searching for the best homes. It was refreshing to hear their gentle “warbling” as the males were doing their best to entice the mates to their boxes. A few cold snaps since then and they again retreated to some secluded hollow to stay out of the wintry blasts and find some dried berries or sumac. They will, by the last week of March or early April, be logging many trips carrying nesting material to fill the boxes you had ready for them.

If you currently have bluebird boxes in your yards/neighborhood, they should be checked now. See that the roof and mounting are still secure, and that you removed all the debris and old nesting materials. Deer mice commonly take up temporary residence in them so you may want to “tap” on the side of the box a few times before opening it. I’ve had a few mice jump out onto my jacket as they realized their lair was uncovered. Remove the mouse nest or last year’s bluebird nest because they will not reuse it. In fact, if you left it in, the new nest would be built on top and it would raise it closer to the entrance hole and prowling raccoons or house cats could easily fish out the baby bluebirds.

If you don’t have bluebird box/boxes yet, here are some building tips. I like to have a 4½-inch square bottom, with the front of the box 9 inches high and the back 10 inches. This slopes the roof for better runoff. Drill a couple of 1/8-inch drainage holes in the bottom. The front entrance hole needs to be exactly 1½ inches in diameter. The entrance hole should be about 7½ inches off the floor of the box. Mount it securely on a tree, post, or use a pipe flange and galvanized pipe. (Less likely a raccoon can get to it) They should be 4 to 6 feet off the ground and facing southeast. Use no perch below the hole. (Online resources can give you directions as well) Either hinge the roof or one side for clean out.

It may be a bit late, but if you live on a small wooded lot or have a parcel close to you, you can still build a screech owl nesting box. The floor of the box should be 10 inches square with the sides being about 12 inches. The front opening should be 3 inches in diameter and no perch is necessary. I save the entrance hole cutout and attach half of it on the inside to help the owlets climb to the opening when the parents return with mice, etc. I put wood shavings, not sawdust 1 inch deep on the floor of the boxes.

These boxes get mounted about 10 feet from the ground, again facing southeast, and securely fastened (not swinging loose like a wren box.) If you can hinge the roof it may be best to look in on the nesting owl or to evict an unwanted tenant, the gray squirrels who like them, too.

If they don’t get used this year for nesting, they may be used next winter for a safe roosting cavity on the coldest days.

Wren boxes can be built with 1-inch openings, mounted almost anywhere, but leave one access to clean them out. Purchased wren boxes can be beautiful, but most don’t have a hinged side or bottom for clean out. They can be suspended on wire if you would like. Wrens aren’t quite as “choosy.” If your wren box has a metal roof, make sure it is not in the direct sunlight. It may get too warm for them.

Previous trivia answer: The redback and meadow vole, meadow jumping mouse, and short-tailed shrew are all residents of Pennsylvania and Carbon County.

Contact Barry Reed at breed71@gmail.com.