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Fasnacht day: Residents continue to make traditional potato doughnuts

The Tuesday before Lent is known as a day of excess - and all-night partying in cities like New Orleans and Rio de Janeiro.

While the Pennsylvania Dutch are a bit more reserved than that, they still celebrate in their own way - with food. Specifically with fasnachts, rich doughnuts traditionally made with potatoes and fried in lard.

For generations they’ve been made and sold in churches, clubs and businesses.

Many families also have their own tradition. Doris Lusch of Andreas has been making fasnachts for over 30 years, first for her children and now for her 14 grandchildren. Every year she makes over five dozen of the treats with a yeast dough that includes mashed potatoes.

“That’s the Pennsylvania Dutch way, with mashed potatoes. That makes a difference,” Lusch said.

Fasnacht doughnuts get their name from Fasnacht Day, the Pennsylvania Dutch name for the day before Ash Wednesday.

In many countries, it’s a day of decadent eating and celebration before Lent, which is known as a season of fasting.

The other common names for the day or days before Lent have the same roots: Many countries celebrate carnival, which has its roots in the Latin for farewell to meat. Mardi Gras is French for Fat Tuesday.

Historically the day was used to empty the pantry of rich ingredients like sugar and lard in advance of Lent. The rich foods are also thought to bring good luck.

The Pennsylvania Dutch aren’t alone in celebrating with a sweet pastry. Another tradition celebrated in many places including New Orleans is a “King Cake,” with a toy hidden inside which can be exchanged for a prize.

Lusch wasn’t the first to make fasnachts in her family. Different bakers have used their own recipes over the years. She uses one from a 1967 cookbook published by a local farming magazine.

The dough is mixed the night before baking, complete with mashed potatoes. A separate batch without yeast is used to make ball-shaped “roly polys” - which got their name because they flip on their own when they’re fried.

Overnight, Lusch turns up the heat in her kitchen to help the dough rise. The next morning, the donuts are rolled out, and then sit for several more hours before they go in the fryer - traditionally with lard.

“You were supposed to use up all of the lard. That’s what they used for the frying,” Lusch said.

The sweetness of a fasnacht comes from its frosting. Frosting, glaze, or other toppings add the sweetness.

A traditional topping for fasnachts is a dip in molasses.

Lusch will usually have a bowl of sugar for her grandchildren to coat their donuts. Or they’ll cut them in half and top them with jelly.

During the pandemic, many people have taken up baking as a hobby. Making the jump to homemade fasnachts doesn’t require much specialized equipment.

With a rolling pin, an electric frying pan and something to cut out the donuts, most bakers can do it. Lusch also recommends a big bowl for the rising dough.

“You don’t have to have a donut maker. But they’re not hard to find,” Lusch said.

Not everyone is so adventurous in the kitchen. Luckily there are other bakers, churches and businesses that provide a chance to keep the tradition going each year.

Doris Lusch of Andreas has been making fasnachts in her kitchen for more than 30 years. CHRIS REBER/TIMES NEWS
Doris Lusch of Andreas has been making fasnachts in her kitchen for more than 30 years. CHRIS REBER/TIMES NEWS